MaramureÅŸ is a true dreamland, with crystalline lakes, wild crests, mysterious caves and rich, green forests. Above all, this picturesque land is home to kind-hearted, hospitable people, who keep the traditions and the holly ways alive, leading a simple and well-balanced life. Throughout time, the people of MaramureÅŸ have found and recaptured their connection to God in their wooden churches, authentic architectural jewels which have written history. Chiseled in wood with great artistry by the local craftsmen, these churches have been a place where the elders made decisions in times of turmoil, where the young got married, the children – baptized, or where the old got their memorial. Even today, on holidays, these impressive wooden edifices welcome locals and tourists eager to get in touch with the holy mysteries.

Some raised in the 14th century, some three or four centuries later, these churches were generally made from oak, durmast and other resinous woods. They were often built right around clearance areas and the entire community used to participate in their building. In time, the craftsmen’s mastery brought about new wood carving and dovetailing techniques. As the churches were erected on high places and had tall towers that could also serve as watch points, this sort of edifices revolutionized the art of wood work. The MaramureÅŸ region comprises the greatest number of wooden churches in our country. At the beginning of the 19th century there were 120 constructions of this sort in the historical region, but their number decreased to 45 in 1993, when the Austrian administration decided that concrete churches should be erected instead. Out of the remaining 45, eight are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, standing out as remarkable examples of architectural particularities characteristic for different regions and times.

The churches were erected on massive wooden foundations, with no stone, and they are monumental in size. Narrow and tall, yet harmoniously proportionate, they are the small scale image of northern Romania’s mountainous landscape. They stand as a testimony of wood craftsmanship and interior painting and express both the Greek-Catholic and Orthodox faith and art. What stands out about these buildings is also the shape of their eaves, the roof shingles fashioned as fish scales or the tall domes. The threshold pillars are also painted with geometrical, floral or zoomorphic symbolic images. The church’s architecture offers a great deal of information on the importance of the village. In what concerns the interior painting, the byzantine style is predominant, though influences of the western baroque style can also be observed. The icons, first painted on canvas, then attached to the walls, illustrate religious scenes, as well as aspects of local life and images of traditional costumes.

In the historic region of MaramureÅŸ, the churches distinguish themselves through their monumentality, the boldness of their proportions, resembling true cathedrals. These halidoms bear some of the oldest evidence of the Romanian language, books which have survived the centuries, but also relics of the Celtic civilization, like the wood carved graves in the cemetery of the Sat Åžugatag Church.

The wooden churches are not easily disclosed to the tourist’s eyes: some are visible and the road indicates their location, others have to be sought, following a longer footpath. Once found however, they will charm the visitor with their tall silhouette, with their history and the serenity of introspection they induce. Under the mountain peaks, the hills and on the valleys you will find halidoms whose steeples pierce the sky. Cross their threshold and you will know the liberating feeling of coming one step closer to divinity, to simple, hospitable people, always ready to share the tales of the places with the tourists.

 

 

Barsana Monastery

On the hills between the Iza and the Casau rivers, in a unique natural environment and 20 km away from Sighetul Marmatiei, there is one of the most beautiful monastic sites – Barsana Monastery. Underneath the imposing Maramures gate, the alley smoothly sweeps towards the monastery. Built in 1720 on a place called The Monastery’s Bridges, it used to be a school for priests in the nearby villages, but also a source for Romanian books of religious service and teaching. In 1805 the villagers decided to move the church on the Jbar hill, in the middle of their community. It is said that on this hill there was once a cemetery for plague-stricken men, victims of the pestilence, buried without service. The villagers chose that place for the church, convinced that thus, the victims would rest in peace.

After the fall of the communist regime, the monastery was rebuilt by the local craftsmen, masters in the art of wood carving and dovetailing.  The entrance is underneath a lofty, graceful bell tower, while around the monastery there are paved alleys abutting on flowers. On the left, on a green meadow inviting the visitor to a moment’s rest, there is the summer sanctuary and on the right – The Artist’s House, a country house meant to host scholars and halidom craftsmen. The ensemble also comprises the cells and the recent museum, reminiscent of the Maramures culture.

The interior painting is remarkable, extremely valuable and in accordance with the rigors of the baroque art. Although the church is dark, luminosity is given by the dominant icon colors and the beaming windows on the walls. A bridge between the past and the future, the Barsana Monastery creates the emotion and piety of entering a sacred place, as it impresses through its height and massiveness.

The tourists who love the beauty of woodwork can enjoy the serenity of the place and the amazing scenery by renting rooms at a motel administered by the nuns - a cozy, hospitable space at the heart of the halidom.

 

 

Budesti Josani

Out of all the eight churches part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Budesti Josani is the oldest. Dating back to 1643, it is famous due to the objects hosted, which used to belong to two men who fought for freedom against the Hapsburgs: Pintea The Brave’s coat of mail and helmet and the flag belonging to the Transylvanian nobleman, Ferenc II Rákóczi. It is said that Pintea used to steal money from the rich in order to help the poor, and that his wife was 'The Mother of the Forest' herself, a beautiful woman reigning over the forests. She was the one shielding the brave man from the eyes of his enemies, securing his victories. It is also said that Pintea had hidden his fortune in the MaramureÅŸ caves, but so far, none of his ducats were found.

The church distinguishes itself through the four towers at the basis of the belfry, a unique detail for wooden constructions in the land of MaramureÅŸ. Inside the halidom, one’s eyes inevitably turn towards the miniature paintings portraying saints and biblical scenes from between colored framings. Bright and well harmonized, they were first painted on fabric, then hung on the walls. The oldest glass and wooden icons date back to the 17th century, while the church was painted by various artists in different epochs.

In this land, faith and love intertwine with traditional craftsmanship by creating the perfect ambient to find the much desired tranquility within the turmoil of the modern world. At Josani, you only hear the chirping of the birds and the pure hearts’ songs for the angels to hear.

 

The legends of Desesti

The church in Desesti astonishes through its simplicity and elegance, the perfect wood joining technique and interior frescos. The legend says that in 1717, the Tartars burnt down the village church and that the villagers tried to rebuild it in several locations. After five failed attempts, all during which the foundations kept collapsing, the church settlement was finally decided in 1770. Built from oak beams, with a tall roof and double eaves, the church is representative of traditional architecture, yet displaying a special silhouette, given by its upper girders sculpted in a stairway-like shape.

The interior painting is unsophisticated, of post-byzantine style, dating back to 1780. The cheerful, colored details tame much of the place’s sobriety, as well as the icons’, as the latter mainly focus on the Crucifixion theme or on that of The Last Judgment; the Doomsday protagonists are characters of different nations – Germans, Turks, Tartars, an allusion to the historical realities of the times.

Away from the commotion of the big cities, man and nature coexist in perfect harmony at Desesti, in the blessed region of Maramures, home to authentic works of art.

Ieud Hill

Up on the hill in Ieud, one of the oldest inhabited dwelling places pierces the sky - a church standing out as original and picturesque. Initially erected in the middle of the 14th century and destroyed by the Tartars, it was rebuilt in oak and spruce wood four centuries later. The locals on the Iza Valley have kept the orthodox tradition preached in the manifestoes found in the monastery. These are texts written in Cyrillic, priceless for the history of Romanian writing. Among them, the most important is 'The Ieud Codex', dating back to 1391 and discovered in the church’s attic.

Although the exterior might seem austere, the Ieud Church is a true architectonic jewel, impressing with its sculptural richness and interior chromatic. The iconography constitutes the best preserved ensemble of post-byzantine mural paintings in Maramures, with an amazing collection of glass icons brought from Nicula, next to Coresi’s 15th century prints.  Located on the highest area of the village, the church welcomes believers on holidays, as well as tourists drawn in by the beauty of the scenery and the rustic constructions preserved throughout time. 

 

Poienile Izei

In the village called Poienile Izei, there is another legendary church, built almost 400 years ago, but whose foundations were laid back in the 14th century. You will notice it due to its elegant and proportionate bell tower. The entrance in the halidom is done through a double, painted door, portraying an angel on each side.

The work on the post-byzantine painting started in 1794, impressing the viewer with its themes and harmonious coloring. One can notice moralizing elements prevalent in the Judgment Day scene, especially focusing on Hell. Hence, you will see images with the generic liar hung by the tongue, devils ploughing or playing the violin to the man who sleeps during service. The paintings mainly focus on the punishments awaiting the sinners and accentuate the importance of keeping religious traditions.

Presently, the church has a solid rock foundation, symbol of its durability and deep roots in the Romanian land. This holy place teaches a valuable lesson on culture and tradition, one that will last in time, as a legacy for future generations. 

 

Rogoz

At the heart of the LăpuÅŸ Land, the lofty Rogoz Church rises as a place of worship for everyone in the village. Built in 1663 from two massive trees brought from The Priest’s Hill, the building impresses with its exterior decorations. Sculpting masters were mainly inspired by animal imagery and solar symbols. They placed a wooden ure ox head on the main beam of the church, a common element with countryside houses in fact; the chandelier is adorned with bird-shaped ornaments, while the entrance door is decorated with rosettes. There are further examples of the woodcarving mastery at the exterior: the string-course shaped as a twisted rope which engirds the church, or the beam, decorated with archaic mythology motifs – the Sun, the Moon, the Morning Star, or the stars.

The Rogoz Church is unique due to its asymmetrical roof and its 'elders’ table', a place where wealthy families give away repasts or handouts to the poor for the souls of the dead. Guarded by mild, green crests, abounding with colored, cheerful flowers in the warm seasons, this church belonging to the Land of LăpuÅŸ speaks of another world – one where man is aware and strives for reconciliation with God.

 

Plopis

Once you get to the Cavnic Valley, be sure to make a halt at PlopiÅŸ, a hill area on the flank of the Gutâi Mountains. Here, the villagers, skilled woodworkers, started the building of a new wooden church in 1798, one meant to replace the older worship house. On a low rock foundation, massive square beams rise to support the walls, creating the impression of a well-balanced structure. The steeple has a 16 column balustrade balcony, while the windows are small and storied. Although the church is small in size, the sense of proportion amazes once again.

The interior painting was done by an artist from Sisesti and has been well preserved to the present day. 49 coins were discovered at PlopiÅŸ – each belonging to a family in the village that contributed to the founding of the church. The people of Maramures have always believed that religion and faith play an important role in a man’s life, hence their dedication in building and preserving holy places.

 

ÅžurdeÅŸti, closer to God

Until a few years ago, the church in ÅžurdeÅŸti was the tallest wooden building in Europe, a position now occupied by the church at the SăpânÅ£a-Peri monastery. It is still the pride of the Land of Chioar, situated under the crests of IgniÅŸ and Gutâi mountains. Built in the 18th century, the Greek-Catholic halidom measures 72 meters in height. In the past, people believed that the taller their places of worship were, the faster their prayers reached God. Although outside the region of MaramureÅŸ, the architectural style is still traditional and mature. An illustration of harmony and esthetic perfection, the exterior elements hold the supremacy: the steeple of the church is very tall and outflanked by four little towers, the roof is double and the porch is adorned with frilly ornaments. 

Great values, traditions and crafts inherited from the past generations have been kept on the Cavnic River. Even today, people sell handmade carpets, clothing and jewelry to those curious to find out the secrets of traditional craftsmanship.

This array of wooden churches in MaramureÅŸ is explainable as the locals have continued their customs despite the lure of modern times. Other buildings of similar artistic value can be admired at Botiza, Calinesti, Bogdan Voda, Rozavlea.  Authentic, folk works of art, they impress with their architectural balance, harmonious proportions, simplicity and grandeur. Bridges across time, the churches in Maramures have had a tremendous impact on tourists, especially since the locals’ spirit has faithfully preserved them.

[An article written by Andreea Bertea]