Transfagarasan is the road along the mountain trails, built by combining natural resources with human strength and skill. Being considered one of the most impressive highways in Europe, it crosses the highest alpine unit in Romania, the Fagaras Mountains, which connects the two historical regions - Muntenia and Ardeal. Along the 92 kilometers between the village near Sibiu called Cartisoara and the Bascov village, in Arges County, Transfagarasan unfolds spectacular sights. Traversing this road represents a real challenge for the drivers, as it combines the adrenaline caused by the numerous serpentines with magnificent sights, which take the travelers to an unreal world.

 

2200 Days to Build

The 2200 days that took to build the Transfagarasan gathered many stories recounting the workers' joys and sorrows. In 1969, it was decided that this road would firstly be a strategic one, ensuring that the army troops could pass to Ardeal in case of war. Thus, more access roads would have been opened to Transylvania, avoiding the crossing at Portile de Fier (The Iron Gates). In 1971 however, Nicolae Ceausescu decided that a proper road should be built, with two traffic lanes.

Building the Transfagarasan demanded many material efforts. The sappers on the mountain had to defeat the rocks resistance. At Balea Waterfall, for four years on a row, at certain predetermined hours, dynamited rocks were blown. Then, the soldiers released the area with their bare hands, using levers and throwing the huge rocks into the precipices. On the mountain, metallic nets were mounted in order to hinder the rocks from falling. In building the highway, 6500 tons of explosives were used.

The road winding through the Fagaras Mountains was opened for tourists in September 1974 and since then it has amazed thousands of tourists who had the courage to cross it.

 

The Road in the Clouds

The sights in the Fagaras Mountains are amazing and offer a spectacular landscape in the clear sunny days. On a car trip, which you can take in one day, you will find a few points of attraction. Before starting your trip, you have to know that access on the Transfagarasan depends a great deal on the meteorological conditions. Because of snowfall, for instance, the road is opened for complete traffic only a few months a year, from July to October. In winter, only a short part of the road can be crossed, the Northern segment, from Cartisoara up to Balea Waterfall.

From the north, the road leaves Cartisoara village behind, the place where brother Cartan, “the Dacian who stepped out from the Column” started his journey to Rome. He was a Romanian peasant who fought for the independence of the Romanians in Transylvania, by distributing books in the villages. From his village, a winding and steep road measuring approximately 30 kilometers starts up to Balea waterfall. A few years ago, along the road you could find a farm and a stud farm. These days it is packed by chalets, which are always full. The highway climbs steeply through the forest, with lots of narrow serpentines, up to the waterfall, a spectacular and noisy fall of water, approximately 60 meters high that spreads on the high rocks. On a mountain trail, you reach the foot of the waterfall, a place where you can climb by gondola up to the Balea Lake. 

 

Balea Lake

Up to Balea Lake the road is spectacular and breathtaking, but the landscapes of the white giant distract your attention from this aspect. Once you reach the vicinity of the lake, all the worries tied to the road are forgotten.

The Balea Lake glacier is a declared scientific reservation thanks to its rare plants and animals, among which we can name the edelweiss, the mountain eagle and the black goat. Situated at the very heart of the Fagaras Mountains, at over 2000 meters altitude, Balea offers an amazing sight both in summer and in winter. In the cold season, heavy snows seem to fuse with the clouds, the lake being wrapped in ice. Around the lake there are natural ski slopes, because at this altitude, the period in the year without snow is very short. However, you must take into consideration what you are adventuring into, as the avalanches are a permanent danger on the steep slopes. You can buy souvenirs at the stands in the area, as well as traditional Romanian products (many cheese types, honey, and plum brandy).

 

As there is lots of ice at Balea, you can skate with no fear. Or you can help build the newest attraction of the place, the ice hotel, the second in Europe and the first in the South-East Europe. Huge blocks of ice are taken out from the lake every year and polished in order to create the objects in the hotel. Take the warmest clothes you have, if you want to check in here for the night. All the things in the hotel are made of ice, the bed you are to sleep in included. The average temperature inside is maintained between -2 and +2 degrees Celsius, so you must prepare accordingly. A night in the ice hotel is an experience that literally takes your breath away.

A few mountain trails start from Balea, reaching Negoiu and Moldoveanu peaks. Because the trails last pretty much to complete, at night, mountaineers can be seen with lamps on the slopes. During the day, only the sheep herds populate these mountains.

 

The Vidraru Dam

From Balea Lake, the highway descends in serpentines on a portion of road up to Capra Chalet. Uphill from the chalet there are a few places perfect for camping and enjoying the silence and fresh air. At almost 10 kilometers, on the right, you will find Vidraru Lake, and starting from here, the highway goes parallel to it, through three tunnels, then on serpentines and viaducts, up to the dam. Admired from the dam, the sight opening over the place is fascinating. All around, the calm mirror of the lake is guarded by the forest and by the silhouettes of the Fagaras Mountains.

Vidraru Dam was built with the same efforts as with the Transfagarasan. Between 1961 and 1966, 42 km of underground galleries were dug. At the opening moment, Vidraru was the fifth dam in Europe and the ninth in the world. At night, the contour of the dam is electrically lit, so that it can be noticed from the plane.

You can reach the dam from the eastern shore of the lake. In order to admire the beauty of the sights, you must climb on the Belvedere platform. At the same time, on Plesa Mountain, you will see a symbol of electricity, the statue of Prometheus with the lightning in his hand.

The grandeur of the dam will amaze you, especially if you see the bravest bungee jumpers from the highest launching lane. The silence of the lake is only broken by the leisure boat; from the pier you can hire hydro-bicycles or rowing boats for a relaxing row.

 

 

 

From this point, Transfagarasan follows the route through thick woods, winding through valleys up to the Arges Canyon and the Poenari Fortress. Right from Vidraru, among the lofty fir tree tops, you can see the fortified walls on the Cetatuia Mountain. Seen from the Transfagarasan, Poenari Fortress lures you to admire the generous view at the foot of the mountain, so climbing the 1480 steps won’t be an obstacle for this visual delight. Along the road which crosses the forest you will find several lay-overs where you can rest and regain your strength. At the end of this difficult climb, you have the fortress with its over 700 year old legends. Prince Vlad the Impaler found his last refuge here before heading to Transylvania. It is said that in the 15th century, when the fortification was rebuilt, Vlad the Impaler wanted to take revenge on the boyars in Targoviste, guilty for his brother’s death. Some he killed in his characteristic method, others he condemned to raise the walls and many of them died on the mountain slopes. Near the fortress’ reddish walls you will see some torture instruments, symbolic for the ruler’s cruelty. From near the ruins, the panorama splendidly and wildly opens towards the Apuseni Mountains and the Arges Valley. You have to try the sensation of this unending view lying at your feet.

 

Adrenaline on the Transfagarasan

Together with the Transalpina, the Transfagarasan is a route which raises the level of adrenaline for drivers. The serpentines and the never-ending turns create a thrilling drive over the road in the mountains. The Transfagarasan is a part of the Arges Rally (The Dunlop National Rallies Championship), a competition that tests the courage and patience of the pilots every year in June. 

“The road among clouds” deserves to be traversed for the wonderful sights it unfolds, because it takes the traveler’s breath with every turn. First and foremost however, the Transfagarasan was built by human skill and competence, and this arouses the curiosity of tourists, attracting them from all over the world.

[An article written by Andreea Bertea]