Ţara Moţilor is an idyllic corner of country, so fascinating in its simplicity and picturesque that it seems taken out of collection photography albums. Defended by the mild knobs of the Apuseni and by the Arieşul Mare, this mirific land, 'frozen' in time, has seductive songs and aromas which fill the soul with joy. The sceneries reveal themselves in all their glory, in nuances of green, gold and light blue, for the rich forests, the fertile fields and the clear sky blend here. The stone land of the 'moţi' (Romanians from the region of the Apuseni Mountains) evokes the rural and the archaic more than any other region. The old customs and crafts still run the lives of the locals, remaining a legacy for the generation to come.

 

A country that beautiful is equaled by its inhabitants; the moÅ£i are welcoming, industrious and cheerful, dependable peasants who never back away from anything. As a matter of fact, the Romanians in the Apuseni have fought so much for Transylvania, that they are remembered as Romania’s greatest patriots. Horea, CloÅŸca, CriÅŸan and Avram Iancu are the revolutionaries who marked the history of this area, obtaining rights for the moÅ£i and the emancipation from the Hungarian domination. If you meet the villagers, don’t hesitate to listen to their stories, for they contain the true spirit of the place. Follow the emerald course of the ArieÅŸ and you will discover a fairytale world, with hundreds of caves dug in stone, white cascades, majestic gorges and villages dotted about the hills. Å¢ara MoÅ£ilor is a place to be visited with an open heart; in exchange you are offered quietness, harmony and unforgettable memories.

 

 

Layovers on the Mountain Tracks

The sceneries in the Apuseni are grandiose in their wilderness; the moÅ£i have always lived in harmony with the nature which has given them shelter, food and construction materials. On the hills and wide valleys you will see small houses spread between stately trees and haystacks with alluring scents. Above them, the imposing silver rocks rise, hiding caves and spectacular gorges. Although over 800 caves formed in the mountains, few are known or can be visited. It is said that long ago, they were used by the muggers who robbed the villagers at night and were impossible to find during daytime, since they obviously hid in the dark caves. The most impressive is ScÓ‘riÅŸoara Cave in Gârda de sus commune. It is situated at a height of 1165 meters and has housed the biggest underground glacier in the country for more than 3,500 years. The road to the cave takes adrenaline to its maximum, as the access is done on the abrupt stairs carved in the rocks. Inside, the effort is rewarded by the image of the stalagmites and stalactites which unite the ceiling and the floor. Nearby, on the OrdâncuÅŸa Valley there is Poarta lui Ionele Cave (Ionele’s Gate Cave), a speological reservation included in the tourist circuit. The entrance is done through a monumental portal, then the gallery narrows gradually, remaining very tall however, favorable for the colonies of long-winged bats. At the exit there is the magnificent view of the OrdâncuÅŸei Gorges, a track dug between the rocks abounding in vegetation and sprinkled with small, foamy waterfalls.

 

The attraction of ArieÅŸeni commune is without a doubt the water fall at the foot of Piatra GrÓ‘itoare Peak. It smells like fir tree and wet ground all around and you can hear the powerful sound of the gush of water falling down the valley. Vârciorog Cascade was declared a scenic reservation, being an oasis of coolness and an ideal place for a relaxing layover in the middle of nature. A completely unexpected attraction is GheÅ£arul de la Vârtop Cave (The Glacier at Vârtop Cave or 'PeÅŸera MinunatÓ‘'- The Wonderful Cave), the place where petrified traces of the Neanderthal man were found. Although reduced in dimensions and not set up for tourists, the cave is well worth visiting due to its limestone formations, very different and extremely well preserved. The domes, the columns, the stalagmites, stalactites, the drapes and the calcite crystals make this cave one of the most beautiful in the country. Unfortunately, the underground glacier has been affected by the high temperatures, but that doesn’t impinge on the mystery of the gallery, once inhabited by the prehistoric man. If you are a speleology buff, you can explore the following caves nearby: Huda Orbului, Hodobana and Hoanca Apei.

 

The road to Alba Iulia reveals an area perfect for active tourists, who love hikes and adrenaline. Feneşului Gorges and the Ampoiţa Limestones are ideal for escalade, proposing challenging routes and breathtaking views. From under the lofty rocks, the Feneş and the Ampoi follow their smooth course, completing an amazing picture which energizes you in an instance. For the curious traveler, an incursion into Ţara Moţilor has other surprises in store. One of them is the Snail Hill in Vidra commune, a very important fossil point with origins in the superior Cretaceous. The rocky formation preserves the petrified shells of 35 mollusk species, which used to populate the Tethys Sea. Another spectacular attraction is Detunatele, two mountain peaks unique in Romania, made of hexagonal whinstone columns. The legends say that they appeared after a confrontation between two giants, but the truth is they are the product of local volcanic eruptions. The route up to the Detunate reveals the specific charm of the area, with green hills, wide forests and traditional households. Ţara Moţilor surprises you at each step and whets your appetite for adventure every time it lets you discover its unmatched beauties.

 

An emblematic place for this area is RoÅŸia MontanÓ‘ village, a mining site from the time of Roman Emperor Trajan. The extraction of precious metals was stopped in the galleries, but the tourists can learn more about this trade at the Gold Mining Museum. Here, you can visit the Roman galleries, unique in the world with their length and degree of preservation, and the exhibit of tools used to extract and process gold.

 

 

 

Village Life in Ţara Moţilor

The villages of the moţi are dotted about the crests of the Apuseni, evoking the unshakeable connection between man and nature. The small wooden houses have roofs almost three times taller than the walls, shady porches with arcades and windows hidden from sight. In the beautifully arranged rooms, the householders keep the riches of the place: the fabrics woven at the loom, traditional costumes, icons painted on wood or on glass, ceramic dishes painstakingly decorated, artistically valuable creations. The moţi have their own universe full of significance, customs and crafts; you can still see the women weaving and spinning, while men deal with woodworking. The talent and the patience of the locals gave birth to an emblematic music instrument for Ţara Moţilor. The 'tulnic' is a long, up to 3 meters cylindrical tube, with no holes, made from fir tree or spruce wood. Its oblong sounds either announce the holidays or the weather changes or messages with different significations. In the beginning, the tulnic was used by the shepherds as a means of communication. Then it became the cultural dowry of the moţi, preserving both joy and turmoil in its song.

 

The people in the heart of the Apuseni do not depend on technology or modern facilities, without which the city dwellers cannot imagine their lives. The moţi meet on the alleyways of the village and at church, being permanently connected to the bustle of their community. Away from the agitation and the stress of the cities, where people pay less attention to one another, the moţi greet you with an open heart, glad to share the warmth of their house and the tasty foods with the guests. In the hamlets on the mountain that precise quietness that helps you disconnect and charge yourself with energy rules. The fairytale world of the moţi has remained unchanged throughout time. So discover the charming rural atmosphere and the joy of simple things!

[An article written by Andreea Bertea]