In Buzau, on the hills at Berca, nature forms a fascinating landscape in its purest form, almost as seen from the Moon. In a desert area, the barren soil hides in its womb a form of life unknown to us, but whose signs we can see flaring up at the surface. The sunrays have created white and yellow dunes on this land, which become grey when it rains. At Paclele Mari and Mici, in an almost undisturbed and continuously changing habitat, there lie the Muddy Volcanoes, a natural monument ever since 1924. In Romania, the most well-known volcanoes are the ones at Berca, on the loamy plateaus of quaternary age, also known as the 'sludge volcanoes' or 'ground fogs'.

The 'Muddy Volcanoes' Geological Reservation

Access to the muddy volcanoes is done 18 kilometers from Buzau, from Satuc village. From here, the road crosses the bridge over the Buzau River, goes through Joseni and Policiori villages, revealing picturesque sub-Carpathian landscapes. The mountain air in the Carpathian curvature rapidly takes hold of the villages and the hills; the surroundings offer you peace and relaxation, giving you the feeling that you have stepped into another world. In the middle of the rich vegetation, the dry ground, ploughed by ditches looks like a dragon’s skin. At the surface of the small volcanoes, the soil splutters slowly, throwing the muddy volcanic lava in the air. At the Muddy Volcanoes, you will not see impressive craters, or the hot and reddish lava covering the ground. Along 30 hectares, the geological reservation shelters very small volcanoes, which is a very spectacular and rare phenomenon in the world. The high-pitched knobs, where the grey paste slowly simmers, make up a strange, memorable scenery, worthy of a science fiction movie.

The Muddy Volcanoes are different from the real ones because of the eruption products, their shapes and dimensions. They appear from the eruption of natural gases, earthquakes or post volcanic emanations. At Buzau, they appear from gas emanations in the folded and fissured areas that bring mud to the surface. The depths splash the overly curious tourists with a clingy white-grey or brown-neutral composite that comes from the dissolution of the marls and clays located at over 3,000 meters underground. Once, the volcanoes used to splash with water, like geysers, but now their activity is like that of some caldrons stirred by natural gases.   

There is also a very beautiful legend about this place. It is said that during the times of Mihnea the Third there used to be a dragon in the area which is nowadays called Berca. The moment it started to sear the land and steal the villagers’ assets, they complained about this to Mihnea’s wife, lady Neaga. They thought that only her son, Arbanas, could defeat the dragon. Wanting to measure his strengths with such a creature, the young man set out for the hill where the dragon was sleeping. The brave lad, in his wish to get rid of the unmerciful creature, cut two of its seven heads. Trying in vain to defend itself from brave Arbanas, the dragon hid into a hole and remained there forever, being afraid to get out. No grass has ever grown near the hole and the earth is ploughed by cracks. The legend says that the dry soil is the dragon’s skin and that through its simmering eyes the dragon’s cursed blood comes out.

Paclele Mari and Paclele Mici

At the end of the road from Berca, at the last crossroad, turn right to get to Paclele Mici; from the same point, the asphalt highway takes you to the left towards the volcanoes at Paclele Mari. The route twists and turns among the houses, meadows and hilltops. You can enjoy the rural landscape by taking a ride with the bike, but only if the weather is fine a few days before the trip. Otherwise you can end up mired very close to your destination.

The paved pathway goes under a mighty wooden gate, on which you will see written with yay high letters its suggestive name – 'The Volcanoes' Alley'. After a green, 500 meters long slope, the moment you see stripes of yellow ground, you will know that you have arrived at Paclele Mici. Among tame hills, contrasting intensely with their vegetation, the plateau with white cinder cones and silver areas, or with its light crimps, looks like the dunes in the desert. The never sleeping marsh is a continuously changing landscape, as the unsteady nature experiments right under our eyes. 'The cold lava' flows over the old crusts, forming thin mud rivers. However, don’t get too close to the volcanoes because the drops will get on your clothes, and the smell of sulphur is very strong. There is no way you can light a fire in this area.

At Paclele Mari, the cones are higher and there are more crests covered in cold mud, looking like they are melted in the sun light. Sometimes, the rains broaden the craters, forming large volcanoes which shoot up even feistier. In the hot days, the mud changes its color from grey to bright yellow, intensifying the feeling that you’ve stepped into a waste land. The craters area is surrounded by an explosion of wild nature, flowers, trees and very big bushes pushing through the dry ground. The sulphurous soil which also has a very high salinity is not propitious for regular vegetation. However, there are some very rare plants in this area – the Lycium halimifolium in the western part of the reservation and species that are specific to the forest steppe: the couch grass, the periwinkle, the pheasant's eye.

Close to the reservation, you can find a restaurant where you can eat and charge your batteries for the next tourist attractions. If you are planning a longer vacation at the Muddy Volcanoes, we also recommend visiting Sarata Monteoru, the Magura sculpture camp or Ciolanu Monastery.

Sarata Monteoru Resort - Ciolanu Monastery - Magura Sculpture Camp

Close to the Muddy Volcanoes, you can find lodgings in a resort with pretty mansions and stylish villas. The only oil mine in Europe used to function here, created by Grigore Monteoru. Currently, access is only allowed to authorities. In a stage of modernization, Sarata Monteoru lies along several ramifications between woody hills and wide grasslands. In the center of the resort, there is a very well equipped tourist compound, with a salt water swimming pool, a beach and a playground for children. There is also a camping area with little houses where you can stay for a few days of relaxation in a quiet place surrounded by mountains. You can also spend time in a fun way playing paintball or zip lining.  

After you’ve got acquainted with the scenery, change it with the sculpture camp at Magura. Being located on the hills covered by autumn’s golden rug, the outdoor museum spreads over a couple of hectares. The stone sculptures were made at Gheorghe Coman’s initiative, who in 1970 decided that 16 sculptors (always different ones) would carve in stone in the glades of Magura, for a period of 16 years. Year by year, in August and September, the artists worked hard, leaving behind 256 pieces of stone sculptures, real masterpieces. No matter the season or the time of day, a walk among the sculptures at Magura represents the discovering of the stonemason’s craft. You will see that the themes are various and you will discover different faces of the sculptures, according to their position in the sunlight.

Keep a relaxing state of mind in order to enhance it at the Ciolanu Monastery, a place of worship dating back to 16th century. The pathway leading to this place goes through a forest so peaceful that the only sounds you hear are the trembling leaves and your own breathing. Located in an area of natural beauty, the Ciolanu Monastery invites you to meditation and self-discovery. After passing the sculpted wooden gate at the entrance, you will discover a big yard and white houses, well preserved, build around the two churches. It is believed that in the 15th century, a couple of hermits from the Ottoman occupied Byzantium found shelter here. The monastery also has a museum where icons, priest clothing and other religious items can be admired. Stop at the Ciolanu Monastery for a few moments of relaxation before visiting The Amber Museum.

The Colti Amber Museum - The Siriu Dam

At Patarlagele-Colti, nature has been generous, as here you will find one of the world’s rarest natural products. The amber in Buzau is well known throughout Europe and here, at Colti, one can find one of the most beautiful collections in the world. The museum functions in a traditional countryside home with two floors.  At the ground floor, we can admire amber exhibits like mine flowers, rocks, fossils and semiprecious stones, and on the first floor one can discover a variety of old objects of ethnographic significance donated by the locals, among which we include a loom, glory-boxes and wooden shoes. One will also learn about the harvesting of amber, about the local culture and historical facts regarding the surrounding area.

Amber is known for its special curing properties, aiding blood flow, fighting fatigue, stress and depression, calming fever and infections. It is also a material held in high esteem in jewelry manufacturing. At Colti, one can admire the precious accessories worn by Elena Ceausescu and the highlights of the exhibition: two big amber lamps of 1800 and 1500 grams. The color scheme inside the museum varies from opaque black to green and bright yellow or ivory brown. Don’t miss this rare and rich collection at Colti, a proof that nature does not hesitate in sharing with us its treasures.

End your journey with a stop at the Siriu Dam. Guarded by the mountains of Buzau, which reflect in the lake’s water, the dam impresses with its strength and grandeur. Built on the old precincts of the village, it is said that when the water level drops you can still see the tower of the old church. Man and nature have worked together, creating a remarkable landscape, a perfect destination for those who love fishing. Get down to the water’s edge and try your luck with the fishing rod, go sunbathing or rafting on the lake’s calm waters.

Buzau holds treasures that are worth discovering. Whether you are discovering the interior life palpitating second by second at the Muddy Volcanoes or you are going in search of spiritual healing at the Ciolanu Monastery or you decide on a peaceful holiday at Sarata Monteoru, you will discover the hidden richness of this area. You will be charmed by the Subcarpathian landscape with its steady hills, short mountains and lots of green large meadows.

[An article written by Andreea Bertea]