Baia de Fier-Polovragi region is a place of a special natural beauty and a spiritually rich area. Known as “Oltenia from underneath the mountain”, it harbors gorges, caves, villages where Romanian traditions are kept, monasteries and very old churches, genuine historical and architectural monuments. Although it was documented at the end of the 15th century, Baia de Fier (The Iron Bath) has a much longer history, lost in the mists of time. Archeological research has revealed tools carved in rocks and bones, specific to the Middle Paleolithic and fossils from northern animals: the mammoth, the Siberian rhino, the cave hyena, the alpine ibex. All this evidence has facilitated the study of man’s evolution on Earth since thousands of years ago, when he used to share his territory with wild animals.

The name of the settlement comes from the early exploitation of iron, purified with the help of water. The tombs of the Roman soldiers who guarded the road built at the foot of the Parâng Mountains were discovered in the places; travelling it, they arrived at the castrum built at Targu Jiu. In the surroundings of Baia de Fier you will find other attractions that tell the story of this area and they will impress you with their beauty.

Polovragi Monastery

In Polovragi commune there is a monastery by the same name, a place of worship that has been guiding believers for more than 500 years. Situated at the foot of Piatra Polovragilor Mountains and delimited by a forest where there are chestnuts with edible fruit, it has the aspect of a fortress. Even the massive gate carved in wood and the surrounding cells make it look untouchable. But at the end of the stone paved road guarded by tall fir trees, a beautiful white monastery reveals itself, adorned with lively colored flowers, inviting you to discover it. You can rest on the benches near the orchards, admiring the splendor of the place.

The chronicles attest the monastery at the beginning of the 16th century, at first being a small wooden church. Two centuries later, ruler Constantin Brâncoveanu restored it in the byzantine style. The iconostasis is remarkable, richly ornamented with floral interlaces, a masterpiece of old Romanian sculpting. The interior of the church is decorated with icons representing faces of saints and religious scenes, the paintings resembling the ones at Horezu. These paintings have been preserved intact, as the coloring, with sober and harmonious nuances stands out on a blue background. The icon depicting “The protection of the Mother of God” is at the exterior, and they say it punishes the ones with evil thoughts. The legends say that a young man chased by a Turk hid in the monastery. The chaser, angry with his own inability, shot the icon; in a short while he fell off his horse and was fatally harmed.

The monastery has a museum that accommodates a collection of 650 glass and wooden icons, manuscripts with psalm chants, items donated by Matei Basarab and Constantin Brâncoveanu and an old book deposit of over 3,000 volumes in Romanian, Slavic and Greek. At Polovragi you will find the perfect place for meditation and spiritual reconciliation, in the fresh air at the foot of the mountain and surrounded by the hardworking and pious nuns.

In the commune, the traditions have been kept unaltered. The practices on the Saint Elijah holiday (July 14th to 20th) when “Nedeia from Polovragi” takes place, are proof of this. They say that on the morning of this holiday, the residents used to pick healing plants, especially basil and herbs used for spells and charms. They were taken to church to be sanctified and afterwards they were burned and the resulting ash was used for therapeutic purposes. Even the name of the commune comes from the plant that the healers used as a remedy against disease – polovraga.

Oltet Gorges

The Oltet Gorges start behind the Polovragi Monastery, dug between Capatanii and Parang Mountains. Throughout 2 kilometers, nature has created a great, overwhelming and unmistakable landscape. On some portions, the distance between the rocky walls is so narrow that it seems that they are sitting for a chat. As you move forward, being accompanied by the crystalline sound of the Oltet River, the temperature drops approximately 10 degrees; the high mountains, inseparable in some parts, are an impassable obstacle for the sun’s rays. With a rocky roof above, and a clear water that sweeps smoothly over the rocks, a walk across the Olteț Gorges is relaxing and surprising.

At a certain point you will see that an abrupt path starts on the right side of the forest road. After approximately one hour of walking on foot on the marked trail, passing “Cornet” and “Sub Cruce” layovers, you reach “Crucea lui Ursache”, where there is the Dacian Fortress of Polovragi. Built in the 2nd and 1st centuries B.C., it was the only fortification with a stone wall in Oltenia, used as a refuge by the Dacians and for the defense of the road leading to Sarmizegetusa Regia. Legends say that the Dacians reached the fortress in Orastiei Mountains through the galleries of Polovragi Cave, covering a distance of 40 kilometers. It is believed that this was one of their secret weapons, easily disappearing from their enemy’s sight and sheltering in the tunnel. You should know that during calm periods, the Dacians used the same road that you have traveled to get to Crucea lui Ursache. So, you’ve stepped on one of the mysterious paths of ancient history.

Polovragi Cave

Alongside the old Oltet you will discover a huge hole that gapes in Capatanii Mountain; it is Polovragi Cave, a karst formation hiding unsuspected mysteries. The locals say that Zamolxis -the spiritual leader of the Geto-Dacians and the posesor of some amazing powers- had lived here. Inside the cave there is even a rock considered to be the throne of Zalmoxis, and near it - his candle. It is believed that the drops that fall off the walls are the tears shed by the god after Dacia was conquered by the Romans. The legends say that throughout time, the cave has been a shelter to several well-known people, hence the belief that there might be hidden treasures here.

Polovragi Cave is situated in an enchanting natural setting, where the rock’s hardness blends with the lively green of the forest. 9,300 meters long, the grotto consists of a main gallery from which smaller lateral sectors disbranch. Right from the enterance you will feel the high humidity and the low temperature that rises up to 9°C all year round. On some portions, the alluvial deposits coming from downstream have colored the water, hence the names of some sectors such as The Bloody Vault, The White Room or The Divine Chamber. In the first part of the gallery, near Zalmoxis’ seat, you will also notice a smoke painting representing the symbol of death; it depicts a skeletal body that carries a scythe and it is believed that it was drawn by one of the monks who inhabited the cave between the 16th and the 20th centuries.

The geomorphological formations are numerous and spectacular, impressing the visitors with their diversity and dimensions. Among them, there are laces of stalactite icicles, domes, clusters of stalagmites, clay leaks, and intermediate columns. A cave bat colony has found shelter here, but they won’t bother you too much during your visit, as they are used to curious tourists. Polovragi Cave is worth visiting for its mysterious air and for the many formations that have their origins in the mists of history. In addition, in the warm season, the grotto is a true oasis of coolness.

Pestera Muierii (The Woman’s Cave)

Next, the Oltet Gorges reveal another karst beauty – Pestera Muierii or The Woman’s Cave, dug by the Galben River in the limestone from the edges of Parang Massif. In ancient times, during the war period, when men were gone to battle, women and children used to take refuge here; hence the name we know and keep today. A few meters from the entrance, you reach an area abounding in stalactites that cover the ceiling and stalagmite formations resembling organ pipes. On the trail of the main gallery, you will be able to see the Small Dome, shaped like a Gothic cupola, The Altar Chamber, The Pulpit and The Grand Chandelier. The bat gallery from the dome makes its presence known by the short sounds that the fliers emit, accompanied by leaks of water drops.

A few meters away, in a very high hall, the skeleton of a Cave Bear was recomposed, as it used to be one of the cave’s inhabitants from the Paleolithic period. From here, you can step into another spacious hall, where you will notice huge stalagmites (where one of them appears to wear an oriental cloak and a fez on its head), parietal crusts and domes. The Bears’ Gallery is found at the lower level; it is a cemetery of prehistoric animals where skeletons of bears, hyenas, foxes, wolves and wild boars were discovered along with a 30,000 year old humanoid skeleton.

The Woman’s Cave is complex and spectacular, with a voice of its own which melodiously springs from the depths. Limestone formations of impressive shapes and sizes arouse the admiration, while the height of the galleries reduces so much that you have to bow your head and squat walk. Stepping through columns and round stones, you will discover the meaning of all the gallery’s sectors little by little.

The surroundings of Baia de Fier commune give you the chance to discover beautiful and unique attractions. You will also enjoy the fresh air at the foot of the mountains, in a perfect setting for a relaxing holiday, where you can recharge your batteries. Whether you choose to visit Polovragi Monastery or the Oltet Gorges with its mysterious caves, Oltenia from underneath the mountains has secrets to share with its visitors.

[An article written by Andreea Bertea]