The jewel of the Romanian Carpathians, the massif with over 80 blue oases in which the sky reflects, as well as the cloud piercing mountain inviting you to discover its fascinating stories, this is the Retezat. Beyond its wild and unique beauty and the absolute quietness it offers, the massif houses a world which belongs to the brisk chamois and to the thousands of plants coloring the peaks. Wherever the trails may take you, you will discover that in Retezat everything hums with life. The pure nature has created exceptional sceneries here which are truly worth a mountain hike. If you want an active holiday, where you conquer the heights carrying your backpack or if you want to relax on the shores of the lakes all day long, away from the agitation and commotion of the cities, the Retezat massif is the perfect destination for you.

 

Legends of old say that in ancient times, the mountain was ruled by an ogre who often raided the locals’ households in Hateg Land, stealing their supplies and animals. Many lads tried to stand up to him, but to no avail. Until one day, when a brave young man defeated the beast and cut off its head. And so the ogre turned into a headless rock (Retezat Peak), while his left hand fell over the mountains, turning into water. It is said that from the palm of his hand Lake Bucura came out, and from his fingers – lakes Slavei, Lia, Ana, Viorica and Zanoaga.

The Retezat National Park

The sceneries in the Retezat haven’t been altered by human intervention, so in 1935 the massif became the first national park in Romania, with an exclusive scientific reservation – Gemenele. In the rich green forests or on the bright juniper tree fields, 1190 plant species have found their home. Ninety endemic species can be admired here alone, as well as other rare plants, protected by law. In summer, the mountain is covered by an immense multicolored carpet, from which the violet of the mountain peony stands out, the intense blue of the gentiana, the playful pink of the rhododendron, the yellow poppy, the mountain avens, the Nigritella rubra or the gentian. The chamois and the black woodpecker, mountain cocks, bears and marmots, lynxes and wild cats live in this quiet corner of heaven.  The 'Gemenele - Taul Negru' scientific reservation houses one of the last virgin forests in Europe and the only ancient mixed forest. Only scientific activities are allowed in the area, as the intention is to preserve natural habitats. 

 

 

The Beauties of the Retezat Mountains

Surrounded by the Å¢arcu, Godeanu and Valcan Mountains, the Retezat pierces the clouds with its over twenty peaks of over 2000 meters. Among these lofty peaks, 80 blue oases sparkle in the sun mirroring the sky – the famous Retezat glacier lakes. Formed from the melted ice or from the merging of the rivers, they are extremely picturesque, especially during summer, when tourists choose them for camping purposes. It takes three or four days on the mountain in order to admire all the lakes, but you definitely have to visit the most beautiful. From Poarta Bucurei, close to Judelui Peak, you can best see Lia, Ana, Bucura, Florica and Viorica lakes.

Bucura is the biggest glacier lake in Romania and it is situated at the heart of the stone collosus. Tourists who are passionate about wild sceneries and the peace of the heights gather on its shores and enjoy magical nights and fresh mornings.  When the first sunrays come out, you feel the urge to start for Peleaga or for Judele Peak. Your effort will always be generously rewarded, as the wide panoramas prove to be downright spectacular.

 

 

From Saua Vaii Rele you can observe Lacul Mare (The Big Lake), Lacul cu pietris (The Gravel Lake) and Lacul Mutatorii (Mutatorii Lake) in all their splendor, while on the left you have the lofty Papusa Peak.  In the glacial valley of the Judele, there is Zanoaga, the deepest glacier lake in the country and in the clear waters of Taul Portii, roky peaks, lofty fir trees and clusters of juniper trees mirror themselves. From above, the Retezat seems an enourmous green land decorated with shinig blue spots.

One of the most accesible objectives on the massif is Lolaia Waterfall, situated at approximately ten minutes’ walk from Poiana Carnic. At the heart of the pine spruce forest, the waterfall makes its presence felt with its loud roar; the crystaline water comes down tempestuously and spumously, finding its calm in a small pool. Lolaia reveals its charm from all angles, stunning the visitor with its cool spectacle. But the most surprising richness of the Retezat is the Coral Cave, a special karst formation situated at the south of the massif. Access for vistors is not allowed, as the cave is declared a spelean reservation and the intention is to preserve the galleries decorated with corals.

The Retezat is a necklace of peaks piercing the sky, a string of cold sparkling lakes, a massif which impresses you with its amazing  sceneries each and every time. Ranging over its paths, the mountain challenges you to discover its mysteries and enjoy its amazing sceneries, absolute quietness and the blue of the horizon.

 

 

 

Discover the Retezat Massif

The Retezat Mountains are accesible from the north, through the Hateg Depression and from the south, namely from the western extremity of the Petrosani Depression. The main tourist route starts from Ohaba de sub Piatra, it goes through Salasu de sus and Carnic reaching Pietrele Chalet. If you want to spend the night, you have camping areas available near Bucura and Zanoaga Lakes as well as the following chalets: Gentiana (on Pietrele Valley), Cascada (in the Carnic area), Gura Zlata (above Raul Mare) and Pietrele (on StanisoaraValley). You should know that on the Retezat there is no mobile phone coverage, so you have to be very careful and stick to the marked routes in order not to get lost. Also, be sure to equip yourself accordingly, with a raincoat, fresh water and food.

The Reteazat reveals its beauties only to genuine mountain lovers, as there is no cable car or alpine road. Hence, you should venture to discover the massif only with your backpack, boots and a good physical condition. At the end of the trails you will forget all about being tired because the mountain will fully reward you. We recommend a few routes which mark the main tourist attractions in Retezat.

 

 

 

Saua Retezatului - Portii Lake - Bucura Lake Route (2½-3 hrs).

Bucura Lake - Poarta Bucurei - Retezat Peak - Lolaia Crest - Pietrele Chalet - Cascada Carnic Chalet Route (2½-3 hrs).

Lake Bucura - Taul Portii - Taul Agatat - Lake Viorica - Lake Bucura circular route (3-4 hrs).

Pelegii  Glade - Saua Plaiul Mic - Buta Chalet - Campul lui Neag Route (6-7 hrs).

Pietrele Chalet - Lolaia Crest - Retezat Peak - Saua de vara Retezat - Bucura Peak - Poarta Bucurii - Taua Portii - Lake Bucura Route (7-8 hrs).

Pietrele Chalet - Gentiana Chalet - Curmatura Bucurei - Lake Bucura - Peleaga Peak - Papusa Peak - Portile Inchise - Lake Gales - Pietrele Chalet Route (8-9 hrs).

Ohaba de sub Piatra village - Salasu de sus commune - Sat Nucsoara - Carnic forest range - Pietrele Chalet - Gentiana Chalet - Custura Bucurei - Lake Bucura Route (9-10 hrs, accessible during winter, only up to Gentiana Chalet)

During winter you can ski in normal conditions at Rausor, and if you are a thrill-seeker you can ski on the rest of the massif, provided you are well equipped and trained. You can also practice cyclotourism and mountain-climbing.

 

 

The Retezat won’t let you forget its lofty peaks, its immense rocks of blocks, its wilderness, green forests, shining lakes, mysterious aura and fascinating stories. Step on its trails once and you will always return in love with its greatness, the purity of its sceneries, the feeling of quietness and serenity.

[An article written by Andreea Bertea]

[Photo: Andrei Verdeanu]